by Lamvi Dao. Edited by Jesse Stamell.
Pulau Bidong Island was open to the sea on the South side. C beach was in the South, which faced Kuala Terengganu City on main land Malaysia. Jetty, (the UNHCR area), was in the West. Zone F beach was in the Southeast. Most of forbidden area (the areas facing Vietnam), were in the North, Northwest and Northeast. Anyone who was found in the forbidden areas could be jailed in the Monkey House for several days and have their head shaved against their will. I either didn’t care or I was stupid. Probably both.
Accessibility:
The island was easily traversed by foot. It did not have steep walls or hills. On the East side, which was from Zone F beach to the most northern point, I could not follow the edge because it was very rocky with large gaps between in the rocks. There were not a lot of people who went to the East and Northeast area because of dense forest. Those areas were also far away from the residential area, which was in the Southwest.
I could cut through the island from Zone C to the northern point, however, somewhere in the middle of the island the trees became so thick and I could easily get lost. Usually, I broke tree branches to mark my way out. Also, I felt very much danger around me in the dense forest. There were snakes, boa, and who knows what else. I was only 15.
I enjoyed hiking by following the left (eastern) edge of the island from the Jetty area to the most northern point. The path was easy to walk on. However, at some points, I had to jump or walk up the mountain to circle a dangerous area. To get to the most northern point would take me almost 4 hours.
North
South
There were some tunnels in the Northwest area. Have you seen Cast Away, starring Tom Hanks? We were in that situation except we had more people around us. Coconut trees were abundant throughout Zones A, B, C, D, and F, which were the residential areas in the South and Southwest. Wildlife, plant-life and life in general abounded on Pulau Bidong.
I roamed about 2/3 of the island except for the northern most point and northeastern area. In these 2 areas, the forest was very thick. Along the edge was very rocky.
The forbidden area and the untainted beach
There was a beach on the West side, that was completely untainted. It was located in the forbidden area, so there were just a few people who ever dared go there. That beach was so clean and the water was so clear that I could see for hundred yards.
Once there was a very big turtle came on the beach to lay eggs. It was so huge that I could sit on it. It is possible that it could have carried me out to sea.
I spent a significant amount of time at this beach even though it took me more than 2 hours to get there by foot. There was a very large stream running down from the mountain and it took me about 30 minutes to get up to the point that I could take a bath without being afraid of getting caught by the police task force, who usually patrolled along the ocean shore by canoe to catch trespassers like me.
Some days I also met UNHCR employees at this untainted beach. I was not afraid of any task force personnel during those times. I was covered.
There were some full moon nights that were perfect for fishing for squids. I wandered towards the untainted beach by myself, without a flash light. The moon guided me through the thick darkness. Those nights were so calm and peaceful. I could hear all kinds of noise coming down from the mountain, the waves hitting the rocks and the wind blowing gently. The stars were so bright in the sky.
One time I was trying to get a squid off the hook of my fishing spear by feeling it. Somehow it got one of my fingers into its mouth and took a bite. I lost some meat. Goddamn that squid!
The stream in the middle of the island
In the center of the island there was a very large stream, where it says Kuala Terengganu. The trees there are noticeably greener there because of the water source. I enjoyed taking a bath there. However, there were some big Boas and I had to be careful not to step on any of them. Other than snakes, the stream was an amazingly relaxing place. The water was very cool and clean, which made for perfect drinking water. However, it was too far away from the residential area for frequent visits.
I could fish anywhere I wanted to if I ignored the laws. Zone C beach, Jetty area, and the area between Zone C and Zone F beach did not produce much fish. In order to get a lot fish I usually went in the Northwest direction.
12 Comments
Lam, I read a lot on what you wrote only because I wanted to re-lived some of the memories I’ve had. I’m so thankful for the person(s) responsible for keeping up this site. It’s wonderful! It is ashamed that I was only 8 yrs old when I was on Bidong in 1980 and that our family was only there for only 3 months. But I do remember the good times I’ve had. Had I’d been a little older like yourself, man I can only imagine the funs I’d have and got much out of the island. I enjoyed everything you write because I remembered that how it was like. You’re very descriptive. The rat population, the mountain, the beach, although I didn’t ventured far. Eight remember? I can’t remember of any restrictions. Maybe I was too young. Funny I can’t remember a public restroom either. I do remembered running up the mountain to take a dump and come back a lot. At time, I remember ventured out to Beach C on my own and it’s what you dream about when you’re an adult now in a metropolitan area. That you alone on a deserted, clean, white, beautiful beach island with cool breathe, blue water and sounding of the waves and palm trees. Sounds almost make believe. But how can you have a beach to yourself anymore or any place like that now. Any where you go, people wanted a piece of it too. Not at Bilong. At least, not like those days that I was there. Later reports was that Bidong was a nasty place to be. Maybe it’s because so many people conjugated there for many years later.. But for a short period on the island, it was precious time in my life. Those who had stay there for a longer time would probably have to disagreed with me but those days on the island were like heaven to me. The best long vacation if you will, I’ve ever had. I think of it as a reward after that exhausting time at sea on the boat. I mean think about it, you eat, sleep, swim on the beach all day long. No payments on anything and then get a package of free food every week? I could do this all day long. So much food was given to us those time that we had to burry them in the sand. That was wastful I know.. People who came later can correct me on that. Again, it’s different time and different story. I’m now in the US. Given that it’s a “free country” and land of opportunities but nothing like Bidong. Yeah sure I’m educated and know a lot stuffs along the way growing up in the civilized world. But I do anything to just be able to drop all that I have now and retired on Bidong. I don’t care how infest it is. Wishful thinking huh? Anyhow, I do wish that I can revisit someday and if the island is still accessible even though it’s close now. Hope to find friends with similar experience. Khoa
Hi Khoa,
Bidong is always beautiful. Regardless of how many people were on this island, it is always beautiful. Just like you do think, if I can give up everything I am having now and retreat to Bidong, I would do so.
One day…one day…we will be back. Bidong will be there for us.
Take care and Best wishes to you!!!
Hi Lamvi,
Even before I read your post,I always regreted that I didn’t dare or was too busy to go to the forbidden areas. I was 19 yrs old at the time. My older sister did go there. She loved it. I stayed at the island for three months but I have so many beautiful memmories. Reading your post, I could see myself walking from The Sick Bay clinic through Vacational school, Zone C, Zone F…..
I agreed with Khoa that many of us are doing well in the US (Engineer, Lawyer, Doctor…), having a very comfortable life. But, I am sure many of us including myself are always longing to the beautiful, sentimental island where we started our life after given a chance of being alive.
Like Khoa said, I never thought life in the island was hard. It is like a dream vacation. I woke up at 5 in the morning, went to the beach to swim in the crystal clear, warm ocean. Then, I took a shower at one of the wells with salted fresh water. My hair was always stiffened like tree roots because of the salted fresh water. Then I worked at Sick Bay as an interpreter in the morning and taught math at middle school in the afternoon. At night, I usually went to the beach to enjoy ocean breeze and and wished some boat out there make it safe to the island. Life was care-free, simple and beautiful.
I love your website. I suggest you open a fund drive so many of us can contribute money. You can use money to fine tune the website and make it even better.
Huy MB 721
Hi Huy,
Thank you so much for your thought and writing.
The idea about “fund drive” is great. Some of us will like it. When it comes to money, it may create certain misunderstanding therefore I thought about it but did not want to implement it.
Again, thanks for your advice.
Lamvi,
Hey Lam, when you find news that we’re able to go back to Bidong, you let know. Don’t you skip out on me. I’ll be there next to you. Plane, boat, whatever man.. Love for Bidong always..K
Hi Khoa,
I am not going to visit Bidong anytime soon, but one day I will return. Mr. Rosli has been very helpful, please contact him through here: http://www.pulaubidong.org/visiting-pulau-bidong
I just have to reply to this. I was there for a while age 7, spent most of my life in Sydney Australia, now i’m living and working in London. I’m doing some research at the moment to refresh my memory for a book project i’m working on. Your article was very insightful and i’m very thankful for it! I was in junior scout and i won lots of swimming competitions at zone C beach:)
I went back for the visit earlier this year and both zone C beach and the beach at the jetty were in perfect condition! the water was super clear and the corals were so beautiful if not better than the one at the red sea.
What can I say?
I knew too little about this. Eventhough it happened in my home country.
This is a tearful site, but I enjoyed reading these articles.
Thank you to everyone who contribute to this site.
Hi Yiing,
Many thanks to your country for open her arms to save us during a very dark period of our country.
Sincerely,
Yes I remembered being there in 1981 for 3 months when I was 7. New comers to the island would swim in the beach where the jetty was. Soon they would realized how come nobody is swimming there except for them. Well it’s because the veterans knew that the public toilet had tubes that would empty out close to the jetty. I think you can still see those tubes on the some of the pictures. I remembered using the public toilet once or twice but was so grossed out by it because there were fecal everywhere inside. All over the floor, inside the stalls, on the walls! I still have nightmares about that. I can still see the wastes coming out of those tubes emptying on the beach. Needless to say I think I took a dump IN the water in Beach C everyday. Sorry for anyone who saw logs floating around in 1981 LOL. I do remember the rats though. Few of the men who stayed in the same hut we were at complained of rats biting at their toes at night. I remembered waking up hearing their screams. They would have contest to reward dead rats with milk, noodles. I envied all those older guys would would make spears etc to bring in extra food. Men would build small little canoes that can hold about 2 people and go fishing to sell or trade at the market. However some would never make it back and were presumed dead. The authorities would round up all the canoes throughout the island and stack them up at the beach and burned it with gas. Does anyone remembered that? One of the men who has been there for years said this would happened every once in a while but the men would be back at fishing in a few weeks. The best part of the day would be swimming at Beach C. Renting or borrowing a inner tube of a tire and go swimming with it. Or taking a empty aluminum soda can and cut it up to make a boat and play with it in the ocean. Sometimes there would be movie nights where it would be outside. They had a projector located in front of a sloped hill where everyone would sit. It was a natural amphitheater. Then there was the “haunted” rusted metal boat near the jetty. I wanted to climb onto it so bad but was so afraid because everyone said there were ghosts in it. The story was that a group of refugees was pulled ashore but some had died in them. You can see this rusted boat in some of the pictures on this site. Man I missed those dried little fish that you get via rations (anchovies?). My mom would fried them up and we eat it with rice. Waiting in line with your family to collect rations such as dried noodles, condensed milk, rice and meat. The authorities would assigned the boat captain as the leader in which he was supposed to collect the rations and hand it out accordingly. However he cheated everyone out a portion of their food and gave it to his one family instead. Survivalism at its best. Man those days were bliss. I can see why there were not many pictures or films of Bidong back in 1981. The authorities didn’t want how horrid the conditions were back then. Of course as a 7 yr old I was fine with it but now realized what a slum it was.
Hi Phong,
This is a great story and once-in-a-lifetime experiences. I wish you and your family with the best in life.
Lamvi,
HI Phong,
I came to the island in March 1987. It was very well organized and clean by then. Clean public restrooms were built through out the island. Sorry for your bad experience at the island. But don’t you agree those experiences, good or bad, really made our life journey more interesting and memorable.